![]() ![]() ![]() You can do it yourself if you have some basic tools and know how to work with ignition coils. If your riding lawn mower has an ineffective ignition coil, it is usually difficult to start, the engine only runs when you wiggle the plug wire, and it has poor performance. In this article, we’ll take a look at how ignition coils work, the common signs of a faulty ignition coil, and what you can do to fix the problem. Bad ignition coils can cause a variety of problems with your lawn mower, including difficulty starting, poor engine performance, and rough idling. Ignition coils are an essential component of any combustion engine, and when they aren’t working properly, it can cause your lawn mower to run rough. Outboards,Edgers, Chainsaws, Trimmers etc.Ĭollectors Events (including) Swap Meets.Having trouble getting your lawn mower to run smoothly? You may want to check the ignition coil. Questions On Chippers, Mulchers, Shredders & Stump GrindersĬhippers,Mulchers & Shreader Parts List & Repair Manuals Questions On Turf Care Equipment & Accessories Questions on Chainsaws and Concrete Cuttersĭigging Equipment Parts List & Repair Manuals Questions on Greenfield Ride On Mower Frames ![]() Questions on Walk Behind Lawn Mower Frames but it's good I didn't spend money on a camshaft and open up the engine for no reason. I still need to figure out why the idle circuit is causing this problem. It makes sense as I could always see a bit of liquid fuel sitting in the intake manifold after removing the carb. Cutting it off means it runs leaner as a whole but I don't think it makes much difference to the mixture at full throttle. I think what must be happening is that the idle circuit is somehow dripping liquid fuel into the intake manifold while running, and that was making the mixture uneven between the two cylinders. ![]() If I block the idle jet with a small piece of wire carefully secured in place, the engine runs perfectly (not at idle though ) and both spark plugs come out clean. I think I must've imagined an improvement the first time I did it.Īfter some lengthy investigation and troubleshooting, I determined that it's actually a carburettor problem. I thought I was onto something with the ACR, but upon further investigation I found that adjusting the exhaust valve clearance doesn't actually seem to make any difference. I would replace the mixture screw immediately but the cheapest I can find one is $45 so I'm a bit hesitant. perhaps if it was somehow letting un-atomised, raw/liquid fuel into the engine, it could be travelling towards cylinder 2 (which is positioned very slightly lower than cylinder 1), vaporising on contact with the hot intake, and causing an over-rich mixture? Let me know what you think. I can't understand how anything wrong with the carburettor would cause a problem on only one cylinder, given that it is a single barrel carburettor, but. I did notice that the carburettor's idle mixture screw's tip is slightly bent. If I adjust the idle mixture screw all the way in, it will eventually stop misfiring on cylinder 2 at idle but then misfires on cylinder 1 due to being too lean. Tried running it with the ignition kill wires disconnected Measured valve lift, it is almost identical between the two sides. It fouls the plug on cylinder 2, and cleans the plug on cylinder 1. Swapped ignition coils (includes spark plug wires) Done a compression test - I get 100PSI on both sides with a cheap tester so at least they match The valve seating surfaces and cylinder walls of the affected cylinder looked OK. Removed the cylinder head of cylinder 2. Tried running it without the air filter Cleaned the carburettor thoroughly, including both jets, the emulsion tube, and all passages Done carburettor mixture adjustments, checked the choke isn't stuck on Adjusted valves to 0.004", intake and exhaust, on both sides To try and troubleshoot this, I've done quite a number of things: It has separate mufflers for each cylinder and the exhaust from the misfiring cylinder smells slightly of unburnt fuel. The fouled plug is black with soft carbon, but not at all oily. The other side doesn't foul the plug whatsoever, as illustrated in the attached photo. It fouls the spark plug on the side that is misfiring. It stops misfiring as soon as you put a load on it, and runs fine - as soon as I engage the blades it runs fine and doesn't miss a beat. The problem is that it misfires on cylinder 2 (the right hand side cylinder looking from the air filter side), at idle and at top no load speed, maybe a couple of times per second. So I have a Briggs and Stratton Vanguard 18HP vertical shaft engine. I would be very grateful if anyone could offer suggestions. ![]()
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